Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Century ride to Los Angeles

Determined to make it to Los Angeles in time for Samir to prep for his interview, we raced all yesterday from Santa Barbara to Santa Monica. Charan had taken our touring bags ahead, and other than occasional stops to rest and sit on the sand, we flew down the coastline. We averaged 15 mph over 110 miles. I am surprised the number is so low, as every time I glanced at my computer, my speed hovered around 20 mph. For the last 25 miles through Malibu, Samir and I gunned it. He drafted behind me as we whizzed along the famous shoreline at speeds of around 30 mph. I hit 42 on a downhill.

Malibu is a funny place. There are more Range Rovers than houses.



Camilo and Lukas were pretty exhausted by mile fifty. After all, we did ride a long long way loaded the day before. Over the trip, all humor has devolved into sarcasm. Consequently, it is hard to take Lukas and Camilo's complaints seriously. We pushed onward, temporarily frustrated at having spent so long a time with our small group of guys. Of course, I wouldn't have had it any other way.






I decided to end my trip in LA, despite the merciless teasing of Lukas and Camilo (they will ride the 120 miles to San Diego, which apparently separates me from my dignity and manliness, but I know better, as I am sure they do too). Doing so saves my dad six hours driving and saves me $250 in plane tickets to a wedding in Chicago and visiting my brother in Manhattan. So I guess that is it! I have come full circle, back to the same apartment where I had tea over a month ago.

I rode 1,723 miles down the coast. I made new friends for life and forged a strong connection with my new roommate. I gained 10 pounds. I saw spectacular coastline, wildlife, and towns both small and large. What a journey. Thank you for following.

So, anyone up for a bike ride?





Sunday, July 18, 2010

Wrapping up

I have five days left on the bike. Tomorrow we are riding 100 miles to reach Los Angeles, where we plan to stay with Charan, Samir's uncle. Camilo wants to spend two days in LA before pushing onwards to San Diego. Then it is a fifty mile ride to Huntington and a long haul to San Diego the following day.

Today we did a century ride while loaded. We said bye to Kyle early this morning. He has been on our radar since upper Oregon. Here he is:



We were about fifteen miles into the ride when Lukas broke a rear spoke. I tightened some of the other spokes with my sole wrench to keep the wheel truer and we removed the panniers from Lukas' bike. Lukas had an "easy" day, while Camilo and I hauled extra baggage. Check out my trailer!


With all that weight, my tire pressure was around 25 psi when we arrived at UCSB. It is usually at around 80 psi.

The ride today was long and hot. We had little water as we rode uphill through the desert-like land ten miles from the coast. With full sun and black asphalt, I felt like I was biking in Anthem again in Henderson.

Charan treated us to massive burritos on the UCSB campus near all of the frat and sorority houses. The burritos were twice the size of chipotle's, and I ate mine like I hadn't seen food in days. Thank you!!! Charan also took all of our gear ahead for us, so our century ride tomorrow will be relatively easy.

We are staying tonight with Phil Conrad and his husband Bob. Dr. Conrad was Camilo's freshman year computer science teacher at UD, and he was kind enough to let us crash at his apartment for the night. An avid musician, he and Camilo played guitar together. Classical guitar is one of the most beautiful sounding forms of music. I love it.

Five more days. That's it. Part of me wants to stop in LA. I miss family and I can't wait to get home. I am going to finish the trip to San Diego though. I am so close, and I don't want to ditch Camilo and Lukas at the very end. I will be home or with Calvin in Manhattan until September 7 when I move to Seattle. Lots of cookie baking in my future!

It is weird to be finishing, having been on the road for 30 days, longer if I count my train ride. So many sights, people, jokes, and stories... It really has been a grand adventure. I have learned a lot about everyone in our group, and about myself.

Love and best wishes.





Saturday, July 17, 2010

Pismo beach

Today we rode through San Luis Obispo and arrived at Pismo beach. The ride was without spectacular scenery, but the land was flat. We rode nearly 50% faster than normal. It wasn't till we pitched our tents that Lukas realized that his brakes had been rubbing since Santa Cruz. He had been so slow, and now it makes so much sense. Biking Big Sur with your brakes on is not for everyone.

I hit 40 mph again today. I also saw a coyote. At Albertsons, I bought peanut butter, jelly, cheese, nectarines, bananas, trail mix, oatmeal, and 36 poptarts. Carboloading much?




One of Camilo's stretch breaks on the sidewalk. This usually happens on the side of the freeway. Lol.

We are riding 86 miles tomorrow. I better rest up. In LA we can play some volleyball. Tomorrow we will meet Samir's uncle and an old professor of Camilo's.

Joseph the seal

I just swam in the ocean and went running on the beach. The ocean dip made me the cleanest I've been in four days. Before the icy swim, I felt like a frog with a slimy coat of sunscreen, sweat and dirt keeping me moist like a mucous film. On the run, I taught Samir to pop kelp air chambers. So much fun!





Big Sur coast. Tensions within the group were high, but we are all big boys and got over each other.

Someone told us that Big Sur was the face of the earth as God intended it to look. I'm not sure if he was saying that God goofed on the rest of the world. In reality, the coast was somewhat underwhelming after all the anticipation. It looked like most of the coast we have seen so far. Still, it was beautiful.


Our campground last night was at Kirk Creek. We were right on the water, so the camping was worth the 75 miles through mountainous terrain. Sometime during the night, raccoons unzipped Lukas' strung up food bag and ate all of his trail mix.

When we left camp, we had to stop as I fixed my dérailleur. It wasn't shifting out of the lowest gear, and I had to practically reinstall it. I love chances to do repairs on the bike, it lets you enjoy a different side of the bike trip.


Elephant seals! This loner is named Joseph. We saw him at Piedras Blancas and ate lunch there to keep him company. Lukas then proceeded to walk toward Joe, to see how close he could get before Joe woke up. Despite our warnings, Lukas touched Joe the seal! Lukas turned and ran like mad, while Joe barely looked over his shoulder before falling back into a torpor.


The males come onto the beach this time of year to molt. Even though breeding season is long over, several fights broke out as we watched them lounge. Adult males can be 5000 pounds! Yum!

Once we reached Hearst Castle, a strong tailwind blew us to our campsite at San Simeon. Here we have hung out with Kyle, a young speech pathologist biker we met in Oregon. He is pretty cool, and it is the best to reconnect with friends we have made on the road.

Big Sur: that's an elephant seal bro

Monterey's coastline seems calm, I think the kelp forest offshore dissipates the smaller ripples on the surface of the water, and the water rises and falls slowly under the fog.


When the fog clears, the day becomes very warm and enjoyable.


Sporting my new DOT vest. It's previous owner was about five times my size.


The Carmel mission was constructed in1770 by the Spanish. It is still an operating church, but you must pay $6.50 to enter. I peered over the wall instead. A lot of attractions on this part of the coast cos money. Luckily, enjoying the Big Sur scenery is free and great on a bike.


Lukas in Big Sur.


Camilo posing with the Bixby Bridge. The coastline is spectacular, and getting to see it so well is a real privilege.

To be continued...

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Strawberries everywhere!

We started today by watching the surfers in Santa Cruz.





Then the ride became a series of smells as we passed through miles of farmland. Sweet and tempting, the scent of ripe strawberries had me salivating as I biked. Hundreds of migrant workers stooped low over the bushes to harvest the plump fruits.
As we rode through one field, two large German shepherds ran after Camilo and attacked his BOB trailer. I am not a big fan of aggressive dogs, and I am glad that they gave up after grabbing a reflective vest. There is a reason I carry a big knife--guard dogs on the loose.

The strawberries reminded me of fun times with my family in Oxnard and of homemade jam.






Barking loudly, hundred of sea lions basked in the sun. We stopped for a snack and a look at these funny creatures.





There was also a flotilla of sea otters. They are adorable.







I have always liked Monterey, mostly for the aquarium. Every time I think about the aquarium, I want to become a marine biologist.







One of the highlights of my day was a phone call from Whitney Adsit, an old friend from school. We hadn't talked recently, and I was so happy to hear from her.

Words to go with the Santa Cruz post

We began our ride yesterday by riding amazing single track right next to the beach. I was in my element, bobbing in and out of the dirt trails with a big smile on my face. I would ride single track all day long; as for these guys, I think they were hurting with their rigid forks and drop handlebars.

The rest of the day was flat and sunny, and the scenery was pretty great too. We saw occasional surfers in the waves below, and I had the Beach Boys playing on my internal jukebox.

We arrived in Santa Cruz early. There we were hosted by Lukas' family friends Mike and Deborah. They own a bike shop in Fresno. I really love their Brompton bikes, which quickly collapsed into a small cube of wheels and metal posts.

We finished yesterday by riding the wooden roller coaster on the board walk. It was awesome! A big thank you to Mike and Deborah for feeding us and putting us up in a hotel.




Monday, July 12, 2010

Thoughts and photos
















At times, I wonder why I am on the road, riding for six hours a day with 75 lbs of gear beneath me. It is dangerous, it is tiring, and it isn't exactly what I had expected. And then, there are times when I am filled with joy, feeling the road rumble beneath my tires. This trip is my life at the moment; consequently, it is a microcosm of all life experiences. Here we laugh and sing, argue and complain. There are good times and bad. We challenge one another and ourselves to learn, to teach, and to accept.

One of the most important lessons I am learning is that "reality" is a creation of the mind. When I am peaceful and happy, then the world is wonderful, even if the road is treacherous. If I allow negative emotions to color my mind, then even moments of laughter seem melancholy. The trip is almost one big spiritual exercise, inviting me to cultivate awareness and understanding through both success and adversity.

San Francisco, part two

Valerie and Noel were wonderful to us. Their garden was one of the highlights of San Francisco.




We ate breakfast in the back yard. Maxwell, a shaggy and plush dog with skunk-like markings, and a couple of chickens kept us company. It was a lot of fun to catch the chickens, and even more fun to hear Camilo scream when the chickens pecked at his hand while he fed them.







The best part about today was Samir. He was quite chipper, having just shaved all but a fumanchu mustache. With his aviators and new bike, he made me smile.

So yes! Samir got a new bike. He traded the Safari for the Randonee, a much better bike. The safari never quite fit him, and the uncomfortable handlebars had given Samir severe hand problems. The new bike is really slick. Camilo also got some work done. His LHT came with a cheap bottom bracket. It cracked. A new aluminum bearing set has given the Surly a new lease on life. Here they are with their bikes.




Location:Market St,San Francisco,United States

Lukas and California

Lukas just loves California. He has had four flat tires and two crashes here, and the hills just keep coming. Yesterday he crashed in downtown San Francisco. His wheel got caught in the trolley tracks, and he and the earth hugged one another-- true love. I think he is trying to earn his new nickname. As always, Lukas is unharmed. This morning, Lukas' dérailleur bent, and we rode around the city trying to find a replacement part. We were successful, and are on our way to Half Moon Bay state park. No knowing what will happen next, but whatever it is, I am sure it will bring Lukas and California closer together.






San Francisco, part one




We are in Orinda with Noel and Valerie, Lukas' cousins once removed. San Francisco was foggy and blustery as we rode over the golden gate bridge.


The last few days have been long and tiring. We completed an 85 mile day and a 70 mile day back to back. The scenery was nice, but for the majority of the ride my mind was focused on the tightness of my legs: the burning sensation of exhausted muscles. Sometimes your legs just don't want to work anymore. They complain and threaten to stop working, like children doing yard work on the weekend. It takes a forceful mind to keep the body in line. Go, go, go! Up the hill, pedal for all you're worth... The soreness sets in as soon as you stop, and joints freeze as if rigor has set in. Sleep, ibuprofen, and food coax your legs back into the clipless pedals for another long haul.

As we rode to the golden gate bridge, we met a biker who used to bike Mount Tamalpais with Charlie Cunningham, one of the inventors of mountain biking. It was really cool to talk to this guy, who, in all likelihood, used to hang with Gary Fisher and Ritchey.



...

Since then, we have spent a day in the bay area, exploring the city on bikes and on the BART.

Location:Market St,San Francisco,United States

Saturday, July 10, 2010

The ospreys



Los aves flotan sobre el mar,
Esperando el pez
Que se alimiente el cuerpo.

Yo floto en el infinito del tiempo,
Esperando la gracia
Que me salve el alma.



Thursday, July 8, 2010

Leah Garratt's pancakes fill her house with a warm, loving smell. Here, it is so easy to repose and rest in the memories of kindness which has so frequently been shown us on our trip. The bikes slow down travel; every hour in a car stretches into a day on the bike. This deceleration of time allows us to return to a pace of life that seems more appropriate for our happiness. I am sitting in a precious gem of a house in Mendocino, just feeling grateful for these experiences and for the love that grace has given us. The first thing I receive from Leah was a kiss and a hug, and that simple greeting was ohhh so appreciated. Leah and Mike are the nicest people, and have been exceptional hosts for our band of cyclists. We shared all of our stories with them last night at dinner--fellow cyclists, tough climbs, wicked descents, and crazy, self-proclaimed messiahs that we encounter along the coast.

For the last week, we've been riding with a 50-60 year old man named John, affectionately nicknamed "Mustachio". He is tall and thin, his wiry frame topped by regally grayed hair, which is mysteriously well-kept for a man who has been living on a bicycle for two weeks. His shining, dark eyes seem to laugh at you, as if remembering a time when he too was as inexperienced as we. Above his lip, a silver mustache of the same epic quality as Yosemite Sam's bestows authority and charm upon him. John has been a good camp companion and a source of knowledge about the coastal route.

Lukas fell for a second time yesterday. This time, he was run off the narrow shoulder into a ditch by a procession of logging trucks. His front tire was demolished by the debris in the ditch, and he fell into the road, scraping his shoulder and hip. Luckily, he has nine lives, and his Raleigh bike is made of steel. We all ditched our bikes and ran back up to Lukas. Then John, riding behind us, stopped and handily changed the wrecked tire without any tools. Camilo was in awe. The next morning, John poured me a cup of coffee ("so strong that your spoon could stand up in it") and asked me with a wry smile, "How's roadkill doing?" I hope we continue seeing John down the coast, in safer situations of course.

I want to give a big thank you to Roseanne Anderson, who has kindly given her old phone to me. I'll now be able to take photos and blog from the road again. What I have missed most about having a phone is being in close contact with family. Thank you for your generosity, Roseanne!

The sky is blue in Mendocino! Time to go walk along the bluffs and enjoy the view. Next to me is a cloth banner with the following words, which I would like to share:

In the end what matters most is
How well did you live
How well did you love
How well did you learn to let go.

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Welcome to California

It feels like several days have passed since I was last able to update the blog. So much has happened since then. We have met people of all sorts and had our share of interesting adventures. Now in Eureka, CA, we left Oregon two days ago.

The southern coastline of Oregon is forever etched into my mind. We often biked alongside the sandy beaches and jagged cliffs, and we stopped frequently to take in the stark beauty of the landscape. The Oregon coast is like a strikingly beautiful young woman, with dark, windswept hair, ivory skin, and eyes as green and profound as a stormy sea. She gazes across the waves, the sea grass bending in the chilly breeze, longing for her distant love to return. As the sun sets, the entire sky explodes into chrysanthemums and the brightest wildflowers. Once the fiery orb has at last slipped below the surf, a dazzling host of stars twinkles above her unmoved face. Oregon's coastline was transfixing, holding you in a curious and magical moment like the end of an tenor's mighty aria.

The last two days, we have climbed up and down large hills through old growth redwood forests. The trees command such respect as soon as you see them. They are like sentinels of a sacred realm--ancient, serene, and stalwart. In fact, the deep corrugations in the bark remind me of deep wrinkles in the faces of Native American tribal elders that I've seen in photographs. As we bike through the groves of redwoods, the only sounds are those that our bikes make. As soon as we stop, or hike through the fern covered trails, the stillness of the space takes me. Quiescent, calm, and reassuring...

As we encounter the hills, it is apparent that Camilo is now the best climber of the four of us. His Paul Bunyan-esque tennis thighs propel him up the slopes like a steam engine. I am also noticing that my knee has nearly fully recovered. I am once again overtaking Lukas, and can almost keep up with Samir and Camilo. Hooray!

We camped at a Lutheran church the other day without permission, as we didn't have a phone number for the pastor. We were elated to wake up to find the church's hospitality chair inviting us inside the church to use the bathroom. People on this trip are amazingly generous and kind. We are learning from many other experienced bikers about touring and about people. Most tell us the same thing, that they never feel afraid while on tour; rather, touring repeatedly renews their faith in the genuine goodness of humanity.

I want to end with a funny story before the KOA kicks me off the computer. The other day, while eating lunch outside of a Starbucks, Camilo was cleaning his pocket knife with his toungue. This knife is like a fossil, covered in millions of layers of caked peanut butter and sundry food scraps. While inside his mouth, the blade nicked his toungue twice, causing it to bleed a little. To observe the damage he'd done to himself, Camilo stuck his tongue out grossly at the window of the starbucks like a mirror. He did this, rather humorously, for a good minute before realizing that the entire Starbucks clientelle was laughing hysterically at him. We all had a good laugh, and some coffee.

Peace, love, and nazitudes.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

A day of unfortunate events

Last night my iPhone was stolen from me at Sunset Bay State Park. I filed a police report and left information with the park rangers, but there is little hope of seeing it ever again... That really was a huge downer for me, especially when combined with a day of the steepest hills in Oregon and a newly reclaimed BOB trailer. But I've had a lot of time miles behind the rest of the guys today to think about things. I've done all I can (changed passwords, monitored my credit card, etc.,), and stewing over it more is not doing any good. It's just a phone, and I have all the best photos and memories in my head. My "Choose Hope" button got me through today, along with some half-memorized British poems and a little Zen. Today I went from a 0/10 to a 7/10 in mood. I am doing well, and am near Humbug State Park tonight. At a library right now... Got to go. Love you guys! Should I get a new, now very expensive (not via an upgrade) iPhone in Brookings?

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Pain and beauty

Today was simultaneously the most painful and most beautiful day of the ride. Pain emanated from my right knee every time I turned the crank arm over. Consequently, my cadence was really slow, about 20 rpm, and I often biked with just my left leg, its stereoisomer slung backwards on top of my bags like meat from a successful hunt on the Oregon Trail. By midday, the constant stretching of the tendon had eased the pain by constantly inducing it, much like a physical therapist. Now at night, I am grateful for the rest of our motley crew for supporting my gimpy gander down the coast. Samir hauled my trailer and they all took turns waiting for me after more arduous sections of the 101.

Beauty came in part from the pain; not out of masochism, but rather out of the increased awareness that accompanies slow movements. Biking slowly, you choose between being utterly bored or utterly focused. It is always more satisfying to stay focused, and today's scenery and wildlife ensnared my senses. The salty smell of the ocean, the warmth of the sun, and the sticky feeling of anemone tentacles...

We stopped first at some tidepools. There I saw over fifteen species of animals and dozens of plants, including some medicinally used by natives.




My new timeshare.





Sea anemones and purple urchins.


It was hard to walk around the pools, but they were so gorgeous. It has been a while since I have seen starfish and sea urchins in tidepools.








A bigger starfish. I loved watching it's tube feet.











The coast continues to get wilder as we head south. As I was biking downhill, I happened to turn my head and look through the pine trees at the ocean. Just then, a column of sea spray shot up into the air three hundred feet offshore, and a large gray body rolled out of the water. A gray whale! I saw four today, possibly all the same whale. This time of year, they migrate south to their summer home in Baja. I was delighted to see the whale, and it gave me the inspiration I needed to keep going the 35 miles we rode today. I also saw sea lions and a beautiful hawk soaring below me next to a coastal precipice.

We made camp in back of another Catholic church tonight after calling the priest for the ok. No showers tonight. It is too cold. Our standards for cleanliness have really dropped anyhow, and we are happy as long as nothing is visibly crawling in our food. Mmmm...

Night all! Be safe and have fun. It's all about the journey.

Location:Florence, Oregon